Richard and Suzanne and Duncan's Big 2013 Road Trip
Stage 3 - Canucks Vs. Yoopers
Ellenburg, NY to Watersmeet, MI via Ontario, Canada


Note: Clicking on any of the pictures will bring up a larger version, in a click-thru album for that day. Enjoy!


Day 17 - Sunday, June 30, 2013
Ellenburg, NY to Deep River, ON
242 miles (389 km)

On the final day of the first half of 2013, we rolled out of our room and headed westward on US 11 southbound by the whooshing new windmills picturesquely placed behind the barns and farms of far northern New York. Made a brief stop at a mom & pop gas station in Fort Covington for cheese curds, ice cream, and cheap ($3.47) US-taxed gasoline.

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Old farms and new windmills north of the Adirondacks


Wait - what do you mean by "US-taxed"? A bit of explanation: eventually, we're planning on making our way to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and a glance at the map shows that there are several rather wet obstacles in the way: the Great Lakes. We could either go down through Buffalo and up through lower Michigan, or all the way around via Chicago - or, we could face our fears, exchange our currency, and head around the north way through the wilds of Canuckistan. And that north route is a whole lot shorter, even if the folks along it do talk a bit oddly.

And so we took the turn to the bridge, crossed the island-studded Saint Lawrence on the graceful structures, and crossed the boundary, as Suzanne said goodbye (for now) to all the little people in her phone as we entered a land of unaffordable monopolized data rates. Richard's mind was flashing back to the last several times we attempted to enter Canada, which resulted in relentless yet polite interrogations demanding (nicely) where we had been, where we might be going, and how many interesting lower receivers we might have stashed at home (noneofyabidness!!) But this time, the guards waved us through with just a cursory glance at the passports - don't know if it was because we left the truck at home, or because Duncan for once looked so sweet and innocent, but regardless we were in a Foreign Country and ready for more travel action (eh?)

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Exiting the Lower 48 Waving bye-bye to the USA


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Up and over the St. Lawrence bridges Silver suspension bridge over the border Arching into Canada


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Looking at the big blue boundary


We cruised through Cornwall, accustoming ourselves to the slightly-strange signs with the much higher numbers (oh - kilometers per hour - darn), and eventually made our way across the eastern Ontario farmlands to the 417 freeway.

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Great - we can go 50! Oh - kilometers. :\ In Canada, trucks are expected to drive headlong into walls. It's the law.


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Red and white silos in the Canadian countryside


A stop in Casselman at the Canadian Tire store (a full two aisles of hockey equipment) yielded a nice spare chair and the ability to change our big bills for smaller ones, and then some not-so-exotic cuisine at McDonalds made for a good snack, as Duncan attempted to comprehend the chatter of his new friends in the busy play area.

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Got our Canuck Bucks Canadian Tire, for all your north-of-the-border roadtrip needs. TWO aisles of hockey equipment.


Canada is a remarkably large nation, second only to Russia in land mass, and like most countries figures it needs a capital city to which to send taxes and from which to receive regulations. And on the banks of the Ottawa River sits... Ottawa, where the Canadian Parliament building impressively sprawls along the river like a somewhat-useful Hogwarts replica. Not that we could see it behind the huge stage being built in front for the next day's Canada Day celebrations.

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I think we're in a foreign country. Otta be in Ottawa The Canadian Parliament building, lurking on the riverfront


A loop around the nature museums and war memorials and back on the freeway, where the busy 417 freeway transitioned into the Trans-Canada Highway 17 as cityscapes and agriculture gave way to the endless forests bristling the top end of the continent. Given that route 17 is one of the primary east-west connections across the province and country, it was a busy two-lane drive, and Richard kept his focus on the bumpers in front of him and the occasional oncoming vehicle trying to push a pass just a bit too far.

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Bilingual complicated diagrammatic signs Who is this "Chemin" guy they're naming all the roads after? ;) Can go left, can go right, can't go straight without hitting the checkerboard


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How far to Vancouver? Very busy Trans-Canada Highway


About mid-afternoon, we were thinking a late lunch or early dinner might be nice, and it was about this time that a rather unorthodox sight hove into view - a full-size replica of Noah's Ark, complete with prow, stern, and fiberglass animals milling about. And a fire truck with a big Canadian flag out front. And a playground behind. But most important, the large words "RESTAURANT" and "OPEN" displayed on the window - no problem understanding that language. We entered the hatch (OK, the door) and sat down to a filling meal of chicken and beef, with ice cream cones to take out to the previously-mentioned playground so that Dunc could blow off some of that back-seat-generated energy. Then back into the stream of traffic as the late-day shadows lengthened, the sky reddened by the smoke of distant wildfires.

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Genesis Restaurant at Logos Land, ready for the next Great Flood I think the elephant's happy to see us. Don't know aboot the giraffe, though. Stern striped zebras defend the eatery


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A very inviting playground Clambering up the geodesics Having a swingin' time in Ontario


About the time we reached Deep River, we looked at the map, and noted that there may not be too many lodging options farther west for quite a few kilometres. So we took a look at the Deep River Motel, and were greeted by a nice lady and a decent room - and a price much higher than expected (even given the exchange rate). But we were here and a bit beat, so we paid up and moved in. Back to the office for a minute to ask a simple question - and this time met by a rather difficult man who didn't seem to have customer service at the top of his priority list (why U be stingy with the ice?) But a nice sunset stroll along the shoulder of the road settled things down, as Duncan explored the wild things (that are so different from the ones at home) growing in the drainage ditch (hope that one ain't poisonous). And then to rest as the local weather channel spoke of 13-degree nights and 25-degree days, and sound sleep in a slightly-strange land.

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In deep in Deep River Want a ginormous dandelion? Friendly tree at the Deep River


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It sounds so much cooler in Celsius Sunset on Highway 17



Day 18 - Monday, July 1, 2013 (Canada Day)
Deep River, ON to Sault Sainte Marie, MI
395 miles (636 km)

Early morning at the Deep River: Richard loitering outside the motel office, swatting away the bugs, while desperately trying to get a Wi-Fi signal. Then west on highway 17, watching the Ottawa River carve its wide and deep path along the right side of the highway, keeping us safe from any invading Quebeckers.

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Ottawa River flows by the highway and between the provinces


What could possibly be more Canadian than visiting Tim Horton's on Canada Day and eating red and white donuts? No, we can't think of anything more Canadian than that either. So we did, in Matawa.

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Good stop, eh? Doesn't get much more Canadian than these donuts


North Bay isn't all that north in terms of the entire size of Ontario, but it does lie on the northern reaches of the moderately-inhabited area of the province. It was here that we encountered the Canadian gas pump, outwardly very similar to its American sibling, but with numbers that spin a whole lot faster. And 50 litres and $65 later, we were back on the road and again watching the numbers on the four-digit kilometreposts slowly decrease with the cruise control set around 105. And did we mention that Monte rolled 55,000 (miles, not km) on the odometer about then?

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$1.29? Great... oh, per liter. Not inexpensive, no matter which measurement system you use


Nearly 2 billion years ago, the intersection of fate and gravitation resulted in a giant metallic asteroid parking itself at high speed in what would later be the Sudbury district of Ontario. The solar system's loss was Canada's gain - the nickel and other metals delivered by the ballistic bolide made the Sudbury area one of the world's richest source for nickel and other valuable metals. There is still active mining in the area, and the tall smokestacks of the processing plants can be seen for many miles. But the highway does miss most of the built-up areas, and again on the open highway for more travel, punctuated by brief stops at Nairn Centre for a break and some fun board games on sale, and then a short stop in Massey at a roadside sale for some clothes hangers and a knapsack to put them in.

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Sudbury smokestack peeking behind the sign The nickel smelters of Sudbury, sending their 5 cents worth to the world


Around the Blind River area, route 17 runs along the north shoreline of Lake Huron, offering views of azure water framed by forest. And then a bright yellow sign with great news: "BEACH BBQ!!" Who could resist? We turned down the bumpy dirt road, parked, and hopped out of the Monte... just in time to see the organizers apologize for running out of food. But we're still parked next to a Great Lake, and we have swim gear - fun was still to be had by us as the local folk played around us.

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North shore of Lake Huron (in case you weren't sure) BBQ? Absolutely!


And it was 'aboot' that time that Duncan, already in the water and seeing some older kids frolicking far into the waves, seemingly decided that he was going to walk clear across Lake Huron all the way to Michigan, and was about a quarter mile from shore in no time flat.

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Duncan is off into the Great Lakes waters ...and keeps going, and going...


Mom was NOT amused. She yelled with the strength of her Yooper forebears: "YOU GET BACK HERE THIS INSTANT!"

(happy wave from Duncan as he continued lakeward)

Turning her glare and voice on Richard, she commanded: "Go get him NOW!"

Richard responded in a manner befitting his responsibility as Duncan's paternal caretaker. He slowly took off his shoes, and leisurely pulled on his sandals while rolling up his shorts in a relaxed and nonchalant manner. Alertly checking to see if he could still hear Duncan's happy shrieks (he'd found those teens offshore to play with), he turned toward the water, stopping only for a portajon break and to take pictures of several sandcastles.

Now Mom's really not amused. "GO!!"

Richard plodded into the Great Lakes shallows at a deliberate pace, making sure to not step on any of the little fish, driftwood, or shattered-plastic surprises.

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Dad to the... rescue?


"GET HIM!!!"

Out to the 'rescue' Richard waded, and eventually was able to coax Dunc from his new friends, and father and son plodded shoreward at a stately pace, feeling the waves of Mom anger float across the surface as they waited for her to regain her composure. But our presence on the Huron shore on a very pleasant day eventually calmed all, and more play and relaxation (including Duncan's attempt at matching the sandcastle construction efforts of the locals) put us in a better mood for continuing our Cana-travel.

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"Son, I don't think your mom's too happy with you right now." The Boys in the Lake Hurrying out of Huron


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Hi Beev! Watching the Great Lakes gulls go by Impressive Canadian castles (no, we didn't build these)


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Duncan starts in on his sandy creation Scooping and slopping the sand Forget the castle - let's just have fun instead.


Back onto the busy lanes of Ontario 17 we turned, and put more afternoon kilometers under the tires, patiently following the towed sailboats and heavy trucks until a passing lane might make its passing appearance. Another stop for ice cream at a red house by the road in Bruce Mines, and some more subsequent driving brought us within sight of the United States, across the narrowing tip of Lake Huron.

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Looking at the back ends of many odd loads in between the passing lanes Bruce Mines what? Red House of frozen happiness


Everyone had enough of Canada for now? OK - let's head back into the USA. If they'll let us.

We zigged and zagged through the streets of the downtown of the Ontario version of Sault Ste. Marie, and crossed over the steel spans arching across the Saint Mary's River, the Soo Locks, and that invisible dotted line separating Canada from the United States, above which a flag of each nation fluttered on each side of the highway.

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Let's head back home


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Over the rivers and through the arches Surrounded by the Soo bridge structure Back over the bi-national boundary


Pleased at the absence of a long waiting line, we pulled up to the Homeland Security booth, proffered our passports, and tried to look as all-American as possible. It apparently worked, as we were waved through and into Michigan, merging onto the northernmost part of Interstate 75 (only 1800 miles to Miami!) But no inclination to head south today - we exited into the Michigan side of the Soo, filled up on less-expensive US fuel at the Holiday station, and sought out a place to rest and feed ourselves for the evening. Along the route of old US 2 are several well-kept yet inexpensive motels, and the Laker Inn's friendly welcome and $35 price was just what we wanted.

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But will they let us back in? How far to Miami again?


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Laker Inn at the Soo - inexpensive and friendly And very orange. Very orange.


Around sunset, we grabbed some takeout chow and drove to the city park overlooking the locks and river, watching the massive freighters slowly pass through silhouetted in the red sky. Lots of other families were here as well, awaiting the expected Canada Day fireworks over the waterfront, and what better to watch Canadian celebrations from a green grassy seat in the USA. Duncan found a passel of other kids to play with, as the boys whooped in the twilight spinning their glow sticks in the air (as cool weapons, of course). And the impressive Canada Day fireworks over international waters made for a most fitting closure for a busy bi-national day.

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Sunset over the Soo The gleeful kids wield their glowing weapons Canada Day fireworks from the American side



Day 19 - Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Sault Sainte Marie, MI to Munising, MI
149 miles

After a good rest, we awakened in our Laker room, pondered existential issues while watching cartoons, and busied ourselves for another day of travel, quietly appreciating our return to America.

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Pondering the imponderables


Checked out of the motel and drove to the waterfront, where souvenir stores line one side of the street and the giant ships traversing the Soo Locks loom on the other side. We toured the Corps of Engineers visitors center, where the 500-year history of the Soo was retold, along with illustrations of how in the early 1800s entire ships were hauled out of the water and slid over dry ground between Lakes Superior and Huron (the current locks are a modest improvement).

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Seeing the Soo Aerial view in the visitors center That means YOU.


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Venue for viewing the Soo Locking up a good viewpoint Disgorging into Lake Huron


The list of Great Lakes shipping noted that the 728-foot (222 m) Algoma Guardian would be passing through the locks momentarily, and we adjourned outside to the viewing area to see what looked like a 7-story white office building with a really really long front patio moving slowly toward us from the upstream direction. The Algoma Guardian halted in the lock, the gates closed, and the excitement of the 20-foot descent from Superior to Huron commenced.

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The Algoma Guardian slowly enters


Duncan: "The ship's not doing anything."

Dad: "Look closer."

Duncan: "I still don't see it."

But the black and red seal of Algoma was indeed disappearing under the lock wall, and after a few minutes the downstream gates opened and the Guardian propelled itself to continue its eastbound voyage.

Dad: "Wasn't that interesting?"

Duncan: "No. I'm hungry."

And so it came to pass that we were seated at the fittingly-named Lockview Restaurant, and had whitefish and delicious soup to nurture our landlubber bodies. One feature of this eatery is its use of wooden models of Great Lakes cargo ships to contain the condiments on each table, which Duncan immediately used to re-enact several famous shipwrecks, with one notably poignant moment as a marooned butter pat on its pink Sweet n' Low life raft watched helplessly as the doomed boat slid beneath the Formica waves.

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Lunch at the Lockview Nautical-themed decor The Wreck of the Condiment Boat and its sole buttery survivor


Not quite done with Soo fun. Next door, Duncan sensed the presence of Jilbert's rainbow-colored ice cream, and scoops were smeared over several happy faces (although Suz made the more-prudent choice of Mackinac Island Fudge flavor). And so our Soo-perience concluded as we pointed Monte southward out of town along the old highway toward more Yooper destinations.

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Ice cream: good. Rainbow ice cream: better. Duncan has the blues - blue tongue, blue face, blue hands...


We'd taken M-28 west in the past, and it's not a bad drive, but a peek at the map revealed a different route that would take us more closely along the Lake Superior shoreline, and so we changed course (but not without stopping at a roadside yard sale to get those clothes hangers we forgot back in Phoenix, along with some slightly-expired Easter candy). The route wound round the local reservation, and we waved at the patrol cars parked in the shade by the roadside. A few more scenic miles along Whitefish Bay brought us to the Point Iroquois Lighthouse, constructed back in 1870 to guide Great Lakes mariners on their watery way. But how did the location get its name? Back in the 1600s, some Iroquois warriors were looking to make a little "expansion" of territory, and the local Ojibwa sorta objected to that. And the Iro-bones strewn around the site provided the name. Even though the light was turned off about 20 years ago, the site is still open as a historic relic, and Duncan raced his dad up the near-100 steps to the top of the tower to take in the view of the lake. Then a stroll along the rocky shore with Mom to watch the buzzy bumblebees, and an enjoyable drive back to M-123, turning our backs on the road to Paradise so we can finally join M-28 for our westward travels.

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Cruising the byway Iroquois Point Lighthouse on Whitefish Bay Whitewashed walls still stand strong


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Tall tower that once housed a life-saving light "Beat you to the top!" Excellent view of Lake Superior obstructed by an opaque child


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Bumbling bumblebees performing their pollination A cool sprinkler on a warm day Big boat on Lake Superior


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Not again... Paradise is always in the other direction. Finally on M-28 westbound


In the small town of Seney, we stopped at the general store (also cafe and post office, of course) for a travel break, and saw on a shelf a neatly-lined row of brown paper sacks with red lettering containing that magical dehydrated cinnamon-laced delicacy of Yooperland - Trenary Toast. Suzanne still has fond crunchy childhood memories of the stuff; however, for some reason a bag didn't follow us into the car (joining the trucker hat and life jacket Duncan was modeling from the thrift store area that were also left on the shelves).

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The Store of Seney Mmmm. The brown-bagged wonder of Trenary Toast. Goofing in the thrift-store section


Pulled out of the parking lot and commenced to steer a straight drive west. And we mean straight. We motored the 23+ totally-tangent miles of the Seney Stretch as the square sounds of the Carpenters played on the stereo. The straightest section of road in all of Michigan wasn't too boring, as we chatted about our travels and Duncan kept his head buried straight into the iPad (same as the previous 4,000 miles).

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Seney Stretch unrolls in the rear view Seney Stretching


We'd just missed the Soap Box Derby as we pulled into Munising, but a few of the wacky wheeled contraptions were still strewn in the street as we motored into the driveway of Scotty's Motel. After we unloaded, we took a gander at some of those soapbox specials, and then made the acquaintance of our next-door neighbors for the evening, a family from downstate who also had a boy in Cub Scouts. As the kids swapped Tiger and Wolf stories, the motel's manager came by and asked if we all were hungry. And before we could say "uh huh", there were freshly-grilled hot dogs laid out for eager devouring.

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Soap Box Derby day in Munising


But today cannot be all fun and games - a peek into the suitcases confirmed it had been many days and many miles since our last visit to a washing machine, and even with the friendly folks and nice weather, our early evening time needed to be spent feeding quarters into rumbling and spinning machines and restoring our outerwear to presentable condition. Fortunately, the local laundry is only a short block from the motel, and eventually the last dryer disgorged our duds. And the aroma from the Pizza Hut across the street made our dinner decision easier, and we unwound and folded in the neon-bedecked motel while juggling suitcases and pizza slices.

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The tubs on the washers go round and round... Scotty's Motel - a friendly stop in Munising Presenting bad news in good neon



Day 20 - Wednesday, July 3, 2013
Munising, MI to L'Anse, MI
116 miles

Our stay at Scotty's was pleasant but brief, and we checked out at the appropriate time for the short trip to the downtown dock, where our early afternoon activity awaited - a cruise along the Superior shoreline to see the astounding geologic formations of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. We found our seats on the fantail, and watched the powerful engines of Miss Superior propel us by the abandoned lighthouse and vacation houses of Grand Island, leaving a turbulent white wake astern (except when we'd come abeam of some of the numerous paddlers on their colorful kayaks and boards, at which time the skipper would throttle back a bit). I suppose there are many words that could describe the beauty and wonder of this place, but we'll let the photos speak for themselves.

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Our second cruise of the Road Trip Overview of the lakeshore Miss Superior ready for boarding Leaving the Muni-scene behind for a little while


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They say it's a 3-hour tour. We'll see if we end up having to make things out of coconuts... Symmetrical patterns in the wake's waves Miners' Castle Miners' Castle from another angle


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Caves carved by waves and ice Caves close-up Bright colors on the stone All sorts of colorful watercraft


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Greenish water contrasts with the hues of the stone Yo! Gitchee Manitou! Wazzup? Stone formations arch over the lake Water, stone, and waves combine to form fascinating geometric patterns


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Rubble, with seagulls OK, not every photo is perfect... Prows of the "Stranded Fleet" face the lake Need a slightly-large vase?


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Arrr! A rocky pirate. There's even stalagmites Chapel Cove invites us into its stony embrace Bright green stains of copper adorn the cliffs


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The red & brown is iron, yellow is calcium, green is copper, and the white is... seagull byproducts. We think this place is starting to fall apart. Sharing the lake with other classy watercraft Grand Island off the starboard bow


After a couple hours of waterborne scenic overload, we returned to the Munising dock and dry land, and promptly proceeded first to the visitor center to get our National Parks passports stamped, and thence to the local Dairy Queen to soothe our windblown bodies with frozen goodness. And with the family fed, content, and cruising, the afternoon drive proceeded uneventfully.

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Smooshing a souvenir penny (in appropriate copper) Skeeter-meter is in ugly territory Happy DQ-induced messy face


OK, almost uneventfully.

As good parental units, every single time the Monte's door opened Duncan was advised: "make sure you go before you leave!" And he's usually good about the fluid dynamics part of bodily management. But now, dozens of miles from any human habitation, with the unbroken pines to the left and the white sands of Lake Superior to the right, a plaintive voice from the back seat:

"I really have to go."

"How bad?"

"Really bad."

Captain is declaring an emergency. Scan for abort locations with cover. Negative - no access on either side. Accelerate, hope no red-fezzed blue cars nearby. Evaluate dwindling options.

And then, in the distance - is that a blue sign? With the words "Roadside Park"? Yes, yes it is! Swoop in, slam into park, pop doors. And watch my son set a new unofficial record in the 50-yard dash (Upper Peninsula visitor, 8-year-old division).

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The Michigan Roadside Park 50-Yard Dash


And as people may be aware, Duncan is rather fastidious (sometimes) when it comes to personal hygiene, and very much prefers to have clean hands. But the roadside park was slightly primitive in this respect. Hey, no problem - there's this really really really big blue washbasin right down the steps to the beach, right? And Duncan was indeed running lickety-split right into the lake in order to (of course) simply "wash his hands".

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Cleaning up in a Great Lake


But then, an 8-year-old sees: more kids - with dogs! Playing! Having fun! It would be heartlessly cruel to tear him away from such a scene, wouldn't it?

OK, son... you can have a few minutes of play...

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New friends on the white sands


After more than a few minutes, we finally persuaded Dunc's sandy feet back into the car, and we continued our scenic way toward Marquette, the largest city in all da U.P. And being it was a bigger town, time for fuel and a few other items, including additional maps to replace some of the more-abused specimens scattered around the vehicle. And the friendliest AAA office we've yet encountered was more than happy to fulfill our needs. And just outside, Duncan saw a parking lot sporting goods sale with just the perfect collapsible chair for the upcoming 4th of July holiday, and the fact it was both deeply discounted and would actually fit in the cartop carrier sealed the sale.

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Friendliest AAA office in da U.P. Selecting a new seat


A few blocks up the street, our bellies reminded us Munising meals were long behind us, and there next to the giant fiberglass bovines of Jilbert's Dairy was the smiling rotund visage of Bob's Big Boy beckoning us in for a bite. Wise choice - the food was very good and served with a smile to our somewhat tired bodies.

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Jilbert's cow lurks in Marquette trees Big boy and Big Boy


Richard during dinner: "This is the longest we've ever spent together in Escanaba."
(long pause)
Richard: "That's because this is Marquette, isn't it?"

As we said, a bit tired.

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Some sweet attitude adjusters served up at Big Boy


Many more miles to cover. Out the door, bye to Bob, zipping past the two-story outhouse of Da Yoopers tourist Trap near Ishpeming, a curve north toward the Keweenaw on US 41, and before the evening sunshine was completely gone we spied the overhead sign welcoming us to the harbor town of L'Anse and veered into a parking spot at the L'Anse Motel, where we were welcomed into our lodgings for the next few days.

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Didn't we see you in Indiana?



Day 21 - Thursday, July 4, 2013
in L'Anse & Baraga, MI
30 miles

Slept in a bit late on this holiday after all those days of driving from the Atlantic coast. We did finally get ourselves together (hunger can be a motivating factor), and motored over to the high school in the nearby town of Baraga for the Lions Club Pancake Breakfast. The fact we arrived near lunchtime didn't deter us (or the cheerful cake cookers), and we helped them close out their fundraiser with heaping helpings of doughy deliciousness - and Duncan even got one with mouse ears!

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Lions Club host the Baraga pancake breakfast Flipping the hotcakes for the Baraga folks Duncan's pancake is all ears!


Stuffed with syrupy serenity, we made our way to Baraga's main street, where the town's Fourth of July celebration was getting into full swing. All the kids on their decorated bicycles and scooters paraded to the field where the games were underway, and Duncan competed against the local boys and girls in sack races, fishing derbies, and a fiendishly fun challenge of unwrapping bubble gum while wearing tube socks on his hands. But he did get a few prizes (and a mouthful of gum, too).

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Fourth of July on Baraga's main street


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Baraga 4th of July Bicycle Parade Decorated bicycles own the street for a morning Two-wheeled holiday fun


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Duncan socking it to the "sock race" "Nose race" at the Baraga festivities Hopping into the sack race


Even though we're still well above 45 degrees north, the sun was getting mighty hot, so a trip to the air-cooled confines of the local IGA market to replenish our depleted provisions seemed like a good idea. Pop, Pop Tarts, and locally-made ring bologna were dumped into the sacks.

After this, we bolted over to the Bayside Village Nursing Home. Although Suzanne's mom is no longer resident, Suzanne's "gruncle" Everett was still a resident at the home, and really appreciated the visit from 'little Suzie' and Duncan, who was admittedly a bit confused about the whole "great-great-uncle" bit. Also living at the Bayside is a sweet old lady named Elsie Grace, a friend of several friends who really likes jigsaw puzzles - and in fact, we had one for her, delivered from the puzzle place we visited in Missouri on the outbound leg. She was beaming as she accepted the unexpected gift, and we had a very pleasant chat about local history and old acquaintances.

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Seeing Gruncle Everett Meeting Elsie at the Bayside


Wait - it's July 4th, isn't it? Let's go see a parade! Drop in at the Frostie Freeze drive-thru, back to Baraga, unfold our new chairs, and await the festivities.

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Serving up cool yums at Frostie Freeze


Still a bit warm, so Duncan and his dad engaged in cooling squirt bottle duels out in front of the assembling crowds. And soon after, the American Legion honor guard marched up the street, firing the occasional loud rifle volley (which had Duncan covering his ears in a hurry). Following the flags were fire trucks from the surrounding communities, including a touching tribute to their 19 fire fighting brethren who died several days earlier back in our home state in the town of Yarnell. We thanked the fire folks on behalf of the citizens of Arizona for this honor, and resumed watching all the other entries, including police cars, bright yellow Pettibone articulated mechanical equipment built at the local factory, and mini-floats from the K of C, local businesses, and other groups (including an all-girl KISS cover band), with lots of candy flying out to the crowds, which Duncan swiftly scooped up for future roadtrip consumption.

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Ready for the parade Squirt bottle battle Honor guard leads the way


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Local fire crews and their polished machines Touching tribute to the Yarnell fallen Police cars cruise


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Grand marshal in a muscle car Classic cars Shiny red and white Chevy pickup


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Marching band Not-so-marching band Tribute band


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The sound of bagpipes fills the air Ojibwa costumes modeled by the community The K of C has a message for the crowds


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Cool crawler tractor Locally-built Pettibones show their stuff Pettibone lift reaches for the sky


After the parade, it was still rather warm, so we rolled back to the room for a cool afternoon snooze. Subsequently rejuvenated after a couple hours of happy rest, we cruised to the old-time Baraga Drive-In, where the carhop hooked us up with a not-very-healthy but very yummy dinner (and ice cream, of course). A glance at the watch said it was closing in on 9 PM, but a peek at the sky showed the sun still brightly shining. Duncan really wanted to see the fireworks over the bay, but those wouldn't be shooting until after 11 PM - still a couple hours off. What to do? A very cool (bordering on chilly) swim in the waters of Keweenaw Bay (along with hundreds of other fireworks-awaiting families) was just the thing, and Dunc splashed and waded gleefully in the Great Lake. The waters took on a reddish-gold glow as the sun finally settled behind the pines, and as the darkness gently descended, Duncan hauled his shivering self into a warm and waiting towel and we watched dozens of flaming lanterns ascend gracefully from the shoreline, blending in with the emerging stars as new points of light in the upper Michigan sky. And then to finish off the Fourth, the fireworks boomed across the bay as a fitting coda to an exciting day.

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Great Lake, sometimes-great kid Swimming and splashing with the other kids "Here, let me demonstrate my lifeguard skills..."


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The late-day sun... ...gets lower... ...and lower


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Launching the lanterns from the shoreline Lanterns take flight in the twilight Many points of light in the clear night sky



Day 22 - Friday, July 5, 2013
L'Anse, MI to Watersmeet, MI via Ontonagon, MI
112 miles

Very early in the morning, Richard awoke and drove the Monte around the tip of the bay to the appropriately-named Lakeside Automotive for a mid-trip oil change (it's been many miles since home). The person at the counter took the keys, gave Richard a second look, peered outside at the red car, and said: "Where's the truck?" Well, it's nice to know that at least people remember us up here (hopefully for good reasons).

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Monte gets some mid-trip maintenance at Lakeside Auto in Baraga


The L'Anse Motel had treated us well, but it was time to move our base of operations elsewhere on the Yooper Peninsula. Up we packed and loaded, and left a clean room as we wandered into downtown L'Anse for lunch. Even at midday, the Nite Owl Cafe is still a great place for a meal, and will even serve breakfast to one side of the family and lunch to the other. Once fed, we encountered some cousins on the sidewalk outside, and then walked under the green sign of Gambles to replenish our marbles and for a useful bicycle tube (now if we'd just brought a bicycle...)

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Welcome to L'Anse! Nite Owl Cafe is good in the daytime, too


Down the street, we unloaded our accumulated cans into the hungry recycling machines in the IGA grocery store, and then motored back through Baraga to M-35, and thence westward to the very small town of Nisula, where we stopped for a few moments at the churchyard to visit The Gravestone From Outer Space (as seen in the 2006 Big Road Trip) - only this time, Duncan was now old enough to remember and appreciate such an extraterrestrial wonder. We also peered in the windows on the whitewashed Lutheran Church, and even though it's been closed and locked up for near two decades, the interior still looked ready and inviting for Sunday services.

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The old white church in Nisula still stands Even after two decades, still looks ready for service The Gravestone From Outer Space


West of here is the not-so-massive town of Mass City, and on the outskirts near the old Wisconsin Central tracks is the home of one of Suzanne's friends, a nice guy named Dean Juntunen. Dean keeps moving fast - chairing the local school board, helping out at the nursing home, and being a good all-around guy. We enjoyed the geothermal air-conditioned comfort of his spacious and scenery-surrounded home as we swapped stories of recent and not-so-recent events, and Richard wandered off for a bit to see his collection of geology posters and his Air Force commendations.

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Visiting Dean Juntunen (and Doreen) Nice place you have here Nice view, too.


Dean mentioned he had a collection of interesting vehicles in the garage, and Richard was impressed with the racing trike and other speedy human-powered contraptions.

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Very fast trike


Duncan, however, was zeroing in on the cool high-powered 4-wheel ATV in the corner, and Dean asked Duncan, "Want to go for a ride?"

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Want to go for a ride? :)


Duncan was holding on for dear life as he and Dean disappeared into the underbrush in a roar of 4-stroke power. Several minutes later, they reappeared, with a white-knuckled Dunc sporting a huge grin and Dean saying to Richard, "Why don't you two take it for a spin?" It had been several years since the elder Mr. Moeur had operated an ATV (even if he still has his motorcycle endorsement), and soon Richard and Duncan were zooming up and down the wooded trails of the adjacent forest and across the quiet and overgrown rail tracks, with the automatic transmission and power controls making things almost easy (reverse gear? we didn't have that when I was younger!) Then a rumbling return to the house for a happy farewell, and up the diagonal highway to its end in the county seat of Ontonagon.

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Richard tries out the ATV with Duncan again as the guinea pig Motoring through the greenery Overgrown rail tracks in the deep woods


The Monte's fuel gauge was showing a shade low, and we pulled under the rocket-shaped sign of the Holiday station for a fill-up (and malt cups, too!) While we were at the station, our cousin Diane met us for hugs and hellos, and all of us made the short drive to the nursing home at the local hospital. There we saw more relatives and acquaintances of very experienced age, and Duncan's exuberant greetings gave a smile to age-lined faces. But Dunc's attention was quickly diverted by a funny little orange-striped green turtle tapping at the window, apparently wanting some of that yummy hospital food inside. Father and son stepped outside to say hi to the little shellback, and played a bit before scooting back inside for some thorough hand-washing and more extended family conversation.

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The joy of a Holiday malt cup Hi, Cousin Diane! Seeing the relatives at the Ontonagon hospital


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Meeting new hard-shelled friends Ready for his little turtle close-up


It was getting toward dinner time, so we rolled up River Street to the northernmost point on US highway 45 (the other end is in Mobile, Alabama, as remembered in the 2008 Road Trip) and had a hearty dinner with the locals at a nice eatery. Then bye-bye to Di, south on 45 through Rockland and Bruce Crossing, and down to Watersmeet and our waiting (and affordable) hotel room at the Lac Vieux Desert Resort. And after several mosquito-battling trips carting all our Important Items, we settled in for a quick swim at the indoor pool and a sound rest from another vacation day.
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Ontonagon Main Street Many miles to the Gulf Coast


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Seems like a fun place to stay We do many things well. Traveling light is not one of them. Taking a welcome dip in the hotel pool



Day 23 - Saturday, July 6, 2013
in Trout Creek & Watersmeet, MI
54 miles

Actually felt like we were on a vacation this morning, sleeping in at the resort and waking up to a bountiful breakfast at the restaurant downstairs. But we couldn't just slouch around all day - into the Monte and off we go to the tiny town of Trout Creek, Suzanne's ancestral home (and if you've read of our previous road trips, you know all this already. ;)

First stop was at the country estate of our cousin Pam, where Duncan had fun seeing his cousin Hannah, and Suz caught up on all the comings and goings and doings of family and friends. Hannah played us a song on her "kantele" (a sort of Finnish zither) as the family photo book was passed around, and a nice afternoon was had.

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Big hug from Cousin Pam Hannah strums the kantele


It's been said by the residents that the clear cold water from the Trout Creek town well (stored in the big onion-shaped tower with the town name painted on the side) is some of the best-tasting in the whole world. And the spigot under the canopy at Abbot Fox Park by the old mill pond dispenses it for free (within reason, of course). So we organized our collection of jugs from the car and carrier, rinsed out all the old water from the past couple weeks, and refilled our supply - might even taste good back in Phoenix. And across the drive from the park is the home of Aunt Iris, who welcomed us with open arms and a big yell, and more happy times ensued as Iris' kittycats rubbed and pounced among us.

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Filling up on clean Trout Creek water Many color-coded jugs for our travel hydration


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Big hi to Aunt Iris Iris' kittycat perfecting the art of relaxation


Regrettably, the town restaurant is no longer open, but on this day the local American Legion was holding an all-you-can-eat spaghetti dinner at their meeting hall by the old train station. It seemed like the entire town had turned out for the event, and we chowed on prodigious pasta while socializing with extended friends and family.

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Noodles at the Legion hall! The local American Legion post hosts the festivities


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Ready to serve Mmmm. The Duncanino approves


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Viewing the Voigts Hi buddy! Didja like your dinner?


Then a brief stop at the home of Lorena to drop off a year's worth of worn-out jeans to be converted into fluffy quilts, and then a brief stop at the town cemetery to visit the family gravesite and pay our respects.

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The Trout Creek cemetery - resting place of many a loved one Mom joins Dad in eternal rest Remembrances for a recent departure


After returning to Watersmeet, Duncan and Richard adjourned to the indoor swimming pool at the resort for some splasharama, while over at the casino Suzanne enjoyed a "mini-reunion" of her gal pals from high school, where they reminisced over drinks as the band strummed on the stage. And then tired bodies were off to the hotel room (wait - let's have Dad deliver us some late-night ice cream too - why not?), and another night's rest in the big beds.

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The ETC '81 "mini-reunion" gals



Day 24 - Sunday, July 7, 2013
in Bruce Crossing & Watersmeet, MI
29 miles

We were awakened by rumbles of thunder, and gazed out the hotel window to see sheets of rain descending upon the Yooper countryside (or casinoside, in this case).

Hey, isn't the Bruce Crossing Independence Day celebration today? Maybe it's not rained out. Let's go see. So into the Monte, turn on the wipers, and steer north on US 45 to see to our relief that the precipitation ending at the Eastern Time Zone boundary, and the sun coming out as we motored along.

Bruce Crossing, as the name might suggest, sits at the intersection of US 45 (which we spoke of in yesterday's report) and Michigan highway 28, one of the primary east-west highways of the U.P. There's a grocery, gas station, hardware store, bank, funeral home, and a big red overhead flasher suspended above the 4-way stop in the middle of town. And there's a nice park and recreation area, which this day is the site of the town's Independence Day celebration (3 days after the 4th, but who's counting - plus it means it doesn't interfere with other towns' celebrations).

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Welcome to "Bruces" It's not the 4th anymore, but it's definitely an Independence Day celebration


As we drove in, we saw what looked to be a band marching in precision pace into the pavilion. We initially didn't recognize them, but soon we spotted the name proudly placed on the bass drum: "Marty's Goldenaires", a notable corps of talented musicians sponsored by the American Legion post up the road in Bessemer - and featuring Suzanne's old band teacher as their current leader. And as they started into an impressive medley of patriotic favorites, they more than filled the pavilion with sharp-sounding tunes (Duncan: "they're loud"). After the concert, we visited the food area staffed by the Lions Club and assorted cousins, and were served hearty chunks of plump and fresh-grilled chicken, along with cole slaw and fluffy rolls (and don't forget the Vollwerth's hot dogs too!) Duncan, however, was distracted by the nearby vendor selling sundry handheld explosives, and implored his parents to pleaseplease buy him some of those cool boomers. We did relent enough to get him several boxes of "poppers", which were then immediately deployed in retaliatory bombardment of the gangs of other kids in attendance.

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Marty's Goldenaires fill the pavilion with sound Winner winner! Half a chicken is a full meal


After touring the collection of antique tractors, it was nearly time for the big parade, so we made our way to the four-way with our folding chairs and set up for the spectacle alongside Suz's friends, with Duncan and his dad engaging in a squirt-bottle battle along the way. In the market parking lot, a vendor set up vats of chilled lemonade, and several dollars obtained us refreshment on a fast-warming day. And then, with the Legion color guard leading the way followed by the Goldenaires, the parade marched up the highway by the assembled crowds. Phalanxes of wiggling ATVs, festive floats, classic cars, rumbling tractors, and mass quantities of tossed candy (yay!) made for an exciting event.

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Girlfolk are ready to watch the parade A cooling intrusion Ah, refreshing lemonade.


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Here comes the Bruce Crossing parade up US 45! Honor guard takes the lead Hellooo Smokey!


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The Goldenaires make an encore Filling the intersection with musical marching entertainment Not the Goldenaires. But the E-TC Band is still good.


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Cool cruising cars Classic vehicles displaying Finnish heritage Chugging tractors take their turn


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Fun floats Lions floats And poop floats, too


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More shiny fire trucks Hey, little fireman


Once the final entry cleared the intersection and the long lines of (mostly) patiently-waiting vacation and truck traffic was waved through the intersection by Undersheriff Balcomb (or as we know him, "Cousin Jerry"), the day was getting mighty hot and throughly humid, and the thought of an afternoon nap in an air-conditioned hotel room was sounding like a very good idea. So we said farewell to cousins Pam and Andy (and Margie, Emmanuel, and so on...), grabbed a few more Vollwerth's hot dogs for the road, and rolled back to Watersmeet for that aforementioned midday snooze.

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Undersheriff Jerry reports one delinquent in custody.


But, after a bit of rest, Duncan remembered there was a swimming pool just outside the hotel room's door, and Dad dutifully chaperoned him for several hours of super-splashy fun. Dunc saw the wood-paneled sauna in the corner, and asked what that was all about. And so our son had his first sauna (as Suz will note, is properly pronounced "sow-na") experience, which he described as "OK - like home, but wetter".

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Saunarific


We dragged the youngun out of the water long enough to partake in the hotel's obligatory buffet experience, but ended up poolside again for the late evening activity. But then after the sun set, just outside the exit door: "badaboomboomboomBOOM" - the Watersmeet fireworks display was in full swing. We burst outside to watch the show - but alas were chased back inside by swarming hordes of bloodthirsty skeeters. And then ice cream and bed to wind up our last full U.P. day for this year.





Next Stage: Zooming Zonieward


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Latest Historical Revisionism 04 June 2014

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rcmoeur@aol.com

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